Spring prompts us to clean.  Its almost like we're biological wired so that when the first nice days appear, we have the urge to make everything clean.  Remember to clean your makeup drawer!

1.  Natural cleaners - If you have a preference for natural cleaners, try mixing rosemary, cinnamon bark, eucalyptus and lemon essential oils, mix them with a little epsom salts, and put in a spray bottle with distilled water.  Colloidal silver is also an old remedy for killing bacteria.
2.  Thoroughly clean - Empty your makeup drawer, wipe it down with your choice of cleaner.  Don't replace the makeup yet, though.  See Step 3.
3.  Throw out old makeup - Old makeup is a breeding ground for bacteria. This is because you touch the makeup when you apply it, whether its with your fingers or directly to skin or eyes.  Throw out any makeup following these guidelines;
*liquid foundation - older than 1 year
*powered items (foundation, eyeshadow, blush) - older than 2 years
*liquid eyeliner and mascara -  older than 6 months.  
*lipstick or gloss - older than 1 year
4.  Clean accessories - Clean out loose shavings and disinfect your pencil sharpener, dry the sharpener, then sharpen all the makeup pencils for a clean new edge.  shine mirrors with some white vinegar mixed with water.  Put any metal tools like tweezers into the dishwasher.  Throw out old sponges.  Get replacement foam applicators for eyeshadows, or better yet, clean your make up brushes (see below) and use these instead of foam.
5.  How to clean your makeup brushes -  This should be done frequently for those of you with acne, but for spring cleaning purposes, start now.  Wet the brushes with warm water.  Put a little antibacterial soap in your palm and work the brush into it, working up a good lather.  You'll see colors coming out.  Rinse well and repeat until there are is no more color coming out.  Blot dry and lay flat to dry on a clean towel.

Looking for a new look - let me know when you schedule and I'll give you a beautiful free makeover with some healthier cosmetics!  Book you appointment by phone (917. 596. 9535) or online by clicking here.

There are several facials that I have listed on the Calm: Massage & Skincare website, however, which is the best facial for you?  You may find yourself relating to the descriptions of more than one facial, and that's ok.

I list different facials so that you can get an idea of what's possible, but the best facial for you will need to be customized for your particular needs and preferences, and take into account your skin's behavior, your lifestyle habits, diet, skin products used, overall health including what medications you are taking, and even which season we are in.  In this case, one size does NOT fit all.

When you visit, even if you've been here before, we'll talk about what's happening right now, not only on your skin, but how you're feeling physically, mentally and spiritually.  What's happening on the inside predictably shows up on surface of your skin.

It's best to just get clear on what you are experiencing;

• acne or milia 
  
• dryness or dehydration
  
• clogged or large pores
  
• oiliness
  
• sensitivity and/or redness
  
• dullness, lacking a healthy glow
  
• rough texture
  
• spots or hyper pigmentation
  
• sagging or wrinkles
  
• special needs - pregnancy, cancer treatments, etc.
  
• skin other than face - neck, decollate, hands, back, elbows, underarms, etc.

Then just book a time period (usually 60 - 75 minutes) or any particular facial that sounds appealing, we'll talk about contributing factors, and I'll make sure you get exactly what you need.   Questions?  I can be reached at 917. 596. 9535 or info@calm-massage.com

Around this time of year two things tend to happen, as the weather gets drier and colder, and we've overindulged on holiday merriment;
- your skin is feels dry, dull, or is completely clogged or broken out
- you've resolved to do better in the new year.

So let's make a clean sweep of it, forget past mistakes, and work toward healthier skin.  Here's the simple to follow plan;

1.  Start eating better.  You know what this means.  Half of each plate should be vegetables (greater percentage should be cooked at this time of year).  Make sure that you're getting a healthy serving of dark leafy greens at least once per day.  Minimize dairy, and if you must have dairy, try sheep or goat milk varieties that are easier to digest.  Reduce your sugar and sugar-y foods intake.

2.  Hydrate inside and out.  Minimize caffeine; opt for water with lemon or cucumber.  Drink your body weight in ounces.  Moisturize your skin morning and night, applying to damp skin, and applying enough to have your skin feel moist.  

3.  Throw out old makeup, replace with healthier versions, wash your makeup brushes.

4.  Use products regularly, and only those that make sense for your type.  Avoid harsh cleansers, exfoliate once per week, use a treatment masque or serum, and moisturize.

5.  Its a good time of year to consider having some corrective treatments, so that by the time spring rolls around, your skin will be in shape.  One of my favorites is microdermabrasion, and I have a special new method that uses organic flower grains, eliminating the need for aluminum crystals as in traditional microdermabrasion.  My Organic Microdermabrasion series gives you a deep down clean by sweeping away dead skin cells and blackheads that clog the skin and make it dull, flaky, unable to accept moisturizer, or full of acne.  This series will also help minimize fine lines, mild acne scars and sun damage.

6.  Need some hand-holding?  Sometimes it helps to have someone to work out the implementation of your plan, someone to hold you accountable, and some positive reinforcement.  I'm always here for you!

Although some people say there is no dietary link to acne, I have observed that what my clients eat surely influences outbreaks of pimples, the duration of its time on their skin, and even the size and quality of the pimples.  My theory has support from many holistic aestheticians, but also Edgar Cayce, an alternative medicine practitioner, and Dr. Hyman, a nationally-popular physician specializing in wellness and nutrition (see his blog for interesting perspectives on many common health issues).

The following nutrition plan for acne comes from the teachings of Edgar Cayce and Dr. Hyman, and is a good way to eat even if you don’t have acne.  This way of eating minimizes animal proteins, caffiene and sugars, while increasing plant based foods.   

• Avoid milk and milk products.  It’s full of hormones, both natural and added.  Even raw milk has hormones.
• Eat a low glycemic load, low sugar diet.  Sugar, liquid calories, and flour products all drive up insulin and cause pimples. See Alkaline/acidic foods list below.
• Eat more fruits and vegetables - Vegetables should make up half of each meal.  Limit fruit to only once per day.  Vegetables and fruits contain more antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Make sure you get your 5–9 servings of colorful fruits and vegetables every day.  See Alkaline Acidic foods list below.
• Get more healthy anti-inflammatory fats - Make sure to get omega-3 fats (fish oil) and anti-inflammatory omega-6 fats (evening primrose oil). You will need supplements to get adequate amounts.
• Include foods that correct acne problems - Certain foods have been linked to improvements in many of the underlying causes of acne and can help correct it. These include fish oil, turmeric, ginger, green tea, nuts, dark purple and red foods such as berries, green foods like dark green leafy vegetables, and omega 3-eggs.
• Take acne-fighting supplements - Some supplements are critical for skin health. Antioxidant levels have been shown to be low in acne sufferers. Healthy fats can make a big difference. Here are the supplements Dr Hyman  recommends: 

*Evening primrose oil - Take 1,000 to 1,500mg twice a day.
*Zinc citrate - Take 30 mg a day.
*Vitamin A - Take 25,000 IU a day. Only do this for three months. Do not do this if you are pregnant.
*Vitamin E - (mixed tocopherols, not alpha tocopherol): Take 400 IU a day.
*Try probiotics - Probiotics also help reduce inflammation in the gut that may be linked to acne. Taking probiotics (lactobacillus, etc.) can improve acne.

• Avoid foods you are sensitive to - Delayed food allergies are among the most common causes of acne—foods like gluten, dairy, yeast, and eggs are common culprits and can be a problem if you have a leaky gut.  Gluten is from wheat, rye oats, etc.  Try instead grains such as quinoa, brown rice, millet, buckwheat (kasha), wild rice, corn, amaranth.  If you must eat dairy, try goat or sheep’s milk.
• Choose organic, grass fed, hormone free meats when possible.
• Drink water (add lemon or cucumber for alkaline).  Water intake is calculated as total body weight divided by 2.  This will give you the total ounces.  If using an 8 oz. glass, then divide by 8 to calculate the number of glasses.
• Eliminate or reduce caffeinated items.  Try tisanes or herbal teas like chamomile (which is soothing) or peppermint (which is a little peppy).  Even decaffeinated coffee has caffeine.

Alkaline and Acidic Foods Balance

• Aim for 4 parts alkaline food to one part acidic foods; 
• Acid forming foods include:  asparagus, barley, beans (dried), beechnuts, BEEF, BREAD, buckwheat, BUTTER, cashew nuts, Cereals, CHEESE, chestnuts, Chicken, CHOCOLATE, clams, cod liver oil, Cottage Cheese, Cornmeal, cottonseed meal, cow peas, crab, cream, EGGS, farina, FISH, FLOUR, frog legs, Halibut, HAM, hazelnuts, hickory nuts, hominy, HONEY, horseradish, Jello, kohlrabi, lamb, lentils, lobster, mackerel, Macaroni, maple syrup, Margarine, MEATS, mussels, Mushrooms, OATS, pasta, peanuts, Peas, pecans, pistachios, pomegranate, PORK, prunes, quinces, Rice, rutabagas, Rye, sauerkraut, SALMON, scallops, smelt, smoked herring, sole, spaghetti, SUGAR, syrups, tapioca, turkey, walnuts, WHEAT, wheat germ & WINE.
• Alkaline forming foods include:  agar, ALFALFA(sprouts), almonds, APPLES(apple cider), apricots, artichokes, BANANAS, beets, beet tops, blackberries, blueberries, BROCCOLI, Brussell sprouts, burdock, cabbage, cantaloupe, carob, CARROTS, cauliflower, CELERY, celeriac, chard, cherries, chives, COCONUT, CRANBERRIES, cucumbers, currants (fresh), dandelion greens, DATES, dill, dock, endive, figs (dried), flaxseed, GARLIC, GRAPES, Grapefruit, greenbeans (fresh), guava, huckleberries, Irish moss, KELP, kohlrabi, leeks, LEMONS, lettuce, LIMA BEANS (fresh), limes, loganberries, loquats, mango, MELONS, millet, mint, molasses, mulberries, muskmelons, mustard greens, nectarines, okra, Olives, olive oil, ONIONS, ORANGES, papaya, parsley, parsnips, passion fruit, Peaches, Pears, persimmons, PINEAPPLE, plums, Pumpkin, radishes, RAISINS, Raspberries, rhubarb, Romaine lettuce, rutabagas, sea grass, sorrel, Soybeans, Spinach, squash, Strawberries, Swiss chard, tangerine, turnips, Vegetable oils, water chestnuts, watercress, watermelon.

Edgar Cayce:  I added parts of his list not included on the above list, so there will be some discrepancy.

Alkaline grains: Amaranth, Quinoa , Buckwheat & millet are thought to be either neutral or alkaline.

ALKALINE NUTS: Almonds, Chestnuts (roasted), Coconut (fresh)

ALKALINE DAIRY : Acidophilus milk  , buttermilk , yogurt, Milk (raw only -- human, cow, or goat), Whey 

ALKALINE VEGETABLES: Alfalfa sprouts, Asparagus, Bamboo shoots, Beans (green, lima, wax, string), Chicory, Com, Dulse, Eggplant, Escarole, Horseradish Jerusalem artichokes, Kale, Mushrooms, Okra, Oyster plant, Peppers (bell), Potatoes (skin is best part), Sauerkraut, Soybeans, Sprouts, Yams, sweet potatoes

ALKALINE FRUITS (* should not be eaten with otherfoods) :
Avocados, Citron, *Grapefruit, *Kumquats, *Lemons (ripe) , *Limes, *Oranges, Passion Fruit, Pomegranates, Sapotes, Tamarind, *Tangerines, Tomatoes (fully ripened)

Simple recipes to start:

1. Breakfast.  Make quinoa, millet or buckwheat ahead of time.  I make enough for the week.  Then each day, mix 1 part cooked grain, 4 parts fruit on the alkaline list attached, add ½ teaspoon of cinnamon, and if you like, some coconut, soy or almond milk.  I eat this warm.  You can also try Ezekiel brand, which makes a healthier version of an English muffin.
2. Lunch.  Make a big pot of vegetable soup using vegetables on the alkaline list.  I cut up celery, carrots, onion, cabbage and greens, put it in the pot and cover it with canned tomatoes and water.  Then during the week I add 1 part protein/grain mixed to 4 parts soup.  So it could be chickpeas, leftover protein from dinner the night before, etc. and maybe a little whole grain macaroni or some of the grain you cooked for the week.
3. Dinner.  1 part protein and/or grains, then 4 parts vegetables from the alkaline list.  Steam, sautee, roast vegetables, or have a salad (eat warm foods for better digestion).  One of my favorite salads can be served room temperature - steamed cauliflower mixed with a dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, red pepper flakes and a bit of shredded lemon rind.

What recipes can you think of that can be altered to fit these guidelines?  Share them with us!

Summer sun feels good on our skin, but sunburn, premature aging manifesting as wrinkles and dark spots, and skin cancer are concerns.  Here's how to protect and repair skin exposed to summer sun.

Use a sunscreen with an spf of at least 25 that have zinc and/or titanium dioxide.  Don't use spf above 50, as it has more chemicals and doesn't give significantly greater protection.  For example, a 30 spf supplies 97% coverage; a 50 spf supplies 98% coverage.  The FDA says that values above 50 are "inherently misleading", giving a false sense of protection.  Research has shown some of these chemicals, like oxybenzone and avobenzone, are absorbed by skin and are hormone disrupting.  Look for natural ingredients that provide spf, like zinc and titanium dioxide which are not absorbed by skin.

Avoid retinol, retinyl palmitate and AHA's in your summer daytime moisturizer, sunscreen and foundation.  These can increase the risk of sunburn and actually deepen wrinkles when exposed to sun.  For a retinol alternative that won't cause issues in the sun, use the Eminence Age Corrective products under a good organic sunscreen.

Take cover, and reapply sunscreen frequently.  Wear protective clothing like hats, seek shade and avoid sun between 10am – and 2pm.  The FDA now recommends that consumers reapply every 2 hours, but also keep in mind that you'll need to reapply when sunscreen's effectiveness is reduced by sweat or water activities.

Avoid sun when taking certain drugs.  Common medicines that cause sun sensitivity include antibiotics, antidepressants (even natural ones like St. John's Wort), benzoyl peroxide, antihistamines, diuretics, antihypertensives, cholesterol drugs, oral contraceptives and HRT's.  You are at greater risk for sunburn, skin damage and more when exposing your skin to sun while taking these meds.

Add nutrients and moisture to your skin.  Help keep skin healthy and efficiently heal when you do burn.  Part of your daily skin routine must include proper hydration and nutrition inside and out.  This means drinking adequate amounts of water, avoiding caffeine, eating a broad range of fruits and veggies equal to about half of your plate, and using a nutrient-rich moisturizer of serum on your skin. 

If you get a burn - hydrate inside and out, and try these natural sunburn cooling ingredients - stone crop, aloe or apple cider vinegar, applied to skin as cool compresses; oatmeal in a cool bath followed by aloe gel or stone crop lotion; cucumber slices for small areas, like a burn on your nose or cheeks. 

So remember, that prevention is key.  Moderating sun time and using a proper sunscreen will still allow you to tan, without harmful, aging effects, and you'll have an even look when your skin is well hydrated after sun exposure.

Gorgeous skin revealed for summer - a back facial clears acne, smooths texture, evens skin tone.

You already know how a facial can make your skin glow, but a facial treatment is also available for your back.

The skin on your back, largely ignored, can also have acne, acne scarring, uneven skin tone, rough texture, not to  mention chronic muscle tension, which slows circulation, causing more skin problems. 

A back facial has the similar steps as a regular facial;
* cleansing with a Clarisonic brush
* exfoliation with enzymes or granulated products to remove dead skin cells that accumulate and causing acne, dull skin and dehydration
* steaming to soften the skin, open the pores and relax the muscles
* extractions to clear blocked pores that accumulate bacteria, causing acne
* massage to enhance circulation, which cleans the skin from the inside
* corrective masque (for acne, uneven pigment, etc) with a relaxing hot towel
* toning spray to balance the pH, helping skin to heal and absorb nutrients well
* moisturizing and spf to soften, heal and protect skin

In addition, the Back Facial at Calm includes treatment of the back of your arms as part of the "back", helping the area on the back of your arms be blemish-free and smooth as well.  You'll also have a choice of scalp massage or foot massage while your masque is nourishing your skin. 

Pregnant - not a problem, I have ways to position you comfortably.
Brides

Prepare for summer with a Back Facial!

You may not think about your upper arms until you feel bumpy skin or see droopy skin in the mirror.  Your neck and shoulder pain can even be aggravated by muscle tension in your upper arms.  Here are some secrets for sleeker upper arms;

• Exfoliate - the little bumps on your upper arms are called keratosis pilaris, which is caused by the hair follicle getting plugged up by dry, dead skin cells that accumulate.  This is usually more prevalent after winter, when we wear tighter clothes that cause more heat build-up.  Use a good exfoliator twice per week.  This can be a loofah sponge, body brush, homemade or store bought exfoliating product. 
  
• Moisturize - follow each exfoliation and all showers with a non-comedogenic (non-clogging) moisturizer applied to damp skin.
• Facial for your arms -  During your massage or facial, I can use a professional yet gentle peel to help loosen the accumulated dead skin, giving you a clean slate before home care.
  
• Tricep exercises.  Tone the muscles under the arms called triceps.  Light weights or the classic push ups work wonders if you're consistent.  
• Massage - massage applied directly to the upper arm helps by increasing circulation, helping muscles tone up and skin look better.  Many of the muscles of the upper arm attach to the shoulder blade, and when they're tight, cause excess pressure on the shoulder and neck muscles.  Make sure you tell me about any neck discomfort so I can address this by checking muscles in the arm as well as the neck and shoulder.